Civita di Bagnoregio. You marvel at the image for sure, by uploading it on Instagram everyone liked it a lot, where are you, it’s wonderful, I want to go, tell!
But behind this photo is the story of a city that is disappearing day by day as the place where it is located erodes and only 11 inhabitants remain.
Just 2 hours from Rome, 130 kilometers, we find this city doomed to disappear. Connected to the mainland by a walkway that is only accessible on foot, its visit is an adventure to live for a few hours or for a night, as we chose to do.
Located in the province of Viterbo in the Lazio region, Civita di Bagnoregio is a settlement founded by the Etruscans 2,500 years ago and which the constant erosion of the tuff rocks on which it sits condemns to slowly disappear. In the Middle Ages the plateau was three times the size it is today.
Nestled between two valleys had its period of maximum splendor during the Middle Ages. In the past there were five gates to access the ancient city of Civita instead, today, Porta Santa Maria (also known as
Porta Cava ) is the only access gate.
Civita di Bagnoregio is in constant danger of destruction as we said, as the edges of the plateau collapse due to erosion , causing buildings to crumble as their underlying supports collapse. As of 2004 there were plans to reinforce the plateau with steel rods to prevent further geological damage. Loses 7 cm every year
In 2006, Civita di Bagnoregio became part of the list of the hundred most endangered places on the planet of the World Monuments Fund.
But Civita seems frozen in time, only crowded during daylight hours by tourists. The views from Civita towards the valleys are beautiful.
The city, as we said, is inhabited by only 11 people, and can only be accessed through a pedestrian bridge built in 1965. The bridge is reserved for pedestrians, but residents and workers can cross the bridge by bicycle or motorbike at certain times.
The reason for its isolation is the progressive erosion of the hill and the nearby valley, which creates wastelands; this process is still ongoing and there is a danger of the town disappearing. For this reason, Civita is also known as “The Dying City“.
Day Trip from Rome to Bagnoregio and Rome (English Guide)
At the end of the 17th century, the bishop and the municipal government were forced to move to Bagnoregio due to a major earthquake which accelerated the decline of the old town. From the 19th century onwards, Civita’s situation became increasingly compromised, and the rate of erosion accelerated as the layer of clay beneath the stone in the area where the current bridge stands was reached. Tourism is giving it a certain revival.
Walking through its streets, these streets of a city with almost no inhabitants and with a not so large flow of tourists makes you feel immersed in centuries ago.
For those who are going to spend the day there is a fee of €5, which is not the case if you are staying in the city.
Civita has several bed and breakfasts where you can enjoy a night in a place that is almost literally empty, a different experience. During the summer months the number of tourists increases. We went in early October.
You have restaurants but they close early so be careful not to leave dinner for late.
They also have the option of staying in Bagnoregio (the town below) and thus be able to visit Civita for the day.
Our accommodation was the Vinto House. If they go by car they have to give them prior notice and they send them permission to circulate to a guest parking lot that is a few meters from the head of the bridge and has a cost of €5.
I advise you to go down only with a backpack, we carry the carry on but there was a lot of wind to cross this one, and they have a good climb in it.
If you like places with beautiful landscapes, take a look at the Aosta Valley in Italy
But regardless of whether you want to spend the night or not, which we did to treat ourselves, a visit to this different place is highly recommended. From Rome it is a good option, but also if you are touring Tuscany by car it is a good idea to go to Civita di Bagnoregio to get to know it.
NOTE: The information in this article is based on our own experience, being totally objective. This article contains affiliate links.
